Introduction
This first part of the tutorial focuses
on basic modelling techniques and layers them together to
create a more complex model. The model I have chosen for this
series is a Dragon Ogre based on the miniature by Games Workshop
from the mid 80s. The good thing about this dragon ogre is
that it is part human, so knowledge of anatomy and muscle
structure will help greatly.
I will cover the general workflow I usually
go through when creating a model, how I build up from a simple
shape and how to keep edge lines clean. My modelling background
comes from 10 years spent in the games industry creating all
sorts of fantastical creatures.
The actual source files used in this tutorial
are also available to download here. |
1 - Start with a cylinder
Using the photo above, I drew an outline
of the core body shape and sketched out where the joints of
the legs would be. I used this outline as a backdrop to my
left viewport for reference. This image sets the base scale
of the model.
The next stage was to create a cylider
for the base shape of the body. Rotate it and scale it to
cover the outline image. Here, I am only using half a cylinder
as we will mirror the other half later on. This makes it simple
to arrange the base vertices without having to worry about
the other side. Keep the number of segments to a minimum,
just to allow you to sketch out the rough shape, you can always
add vertices and edges later.

Max shortcut - use Alt-B when the left
viewport is highlighted and browse to your reference image.
Be sure to check the Lock Zoom/Pan option and Match Bitmap. |
2 - Fit to shape in side view
Now add an Edit Mesh or Edit Poly modifier
so we can pull the vertices around. Just concentrate on the
side view and pull the vertices to roughly match the outline.
You can be fairly rough to start with and tweak later. Try
to keep the cross-sections in line so they follow the contours
of the body. Also, bear in mind where the joint sockets are
and try not to create a line over them at this stage.
One good technique is to move the whole
mesh down below the sketch first. This way, you can pull vertices
from the top edge without the rest of the edges distracting
your view. Once the top is done, do the next and then the
next until you can fill the bottom edge. Also, think in percentages,
the top line goes at the top, the next is 25% away, the next
should be 50% between top and bottom etc.
I would also recommend using a graphics
tablet if you have one as it is very natural and quick to
grab the vertices and drag them into position. |
3 - Fit in all views and refine
The next step is to cover the other dimensions
and slide the vertices in the perspective view along the one
axis that wasn't covered by the side view, in this case it
was the X axis. Slide the interior vertices only, keep the
border vertices flat along the axis plane as we will mirror
the model later.
Roughly drag them into place, working along
the body and then go back and refine if necessary. There is
no need to be super particular at this stage, we are only
sketching out the basic shape of the model.
You may notice that I have also added another
cross section near the hip to give me more detail. You can
use the Edge Loop/Ring Connect tools in the Edit Poly Modifier.
This works by selecting an edge linking two cross sections,
then select the ring of edges, then use the connect tool to
split the ring down the middle. The default is one division,
but you can add more in one go if necessary.

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4 - Fix line density in tail
Now if you look at the tail section, you
will see that the polygons there are long and thin. There
are too many edges running along its length and not enough
cross section.
We really want to cut down the number
of long edges. The solution here is to collapse some of the
edges which are too short..
There are two ways you can do this, by
collapsing edges or welding vertices. If you want the result
to be the average of the two edge lines, use collapse. If
you want an edge line to simply disappear, use target weld.
Here, I used target weld. |
5 - Add sockets for arms and legs
Now we need to establish where the sockets
will be for all the limbs. Those 3 triangular polygons we
created in the last section will make a good socket for the
rear legs and it will allow us to draw the 3 sided polygons
to the tip of the limb and thus keep our topology clean and
quadrangular.
The other two are simple 4 sided polys.
Feel free to add more cross-sections to help define the socket
placement. Once the socket polys have been selected, we simply
extrude or bevel the faces out a little to create the start
of our limbs.
Don't worry if the placement is not exact,
at this stage we are still working with as few polys as possible
to make it easy for us to quickly push the shape around vertex
by vertex. Try to stay in "sketch mode" in your
head and don't get too precious with your polys. |
6 - Add more detail
Now we can continue sketching out the shape
of the body, adding more detail where necessary and keeping
the topology as clean as possible. Work in all views, push
the vertices around to get the shape you want. Look at the
limb sockets and make sure you allow enough space for the
body to blend into the limb.
I have added more edge lines to the sockets
to make each cap hexagonal. By setting each limb to 6 sides,
I can use just two four-sided polys to cap the end of the
limb. This is great as it keeps the topology clean and the
edge loops complete. This is not essential, but it can really
help make it easy to add detail along edge loops later. |
7 - Refine head & mirror
Notice that in the last step I pulled back
the vertices around the head. Now we can go back and work
our way up the head. Select the border edges around the neck
and then shift-move them to create another row of faces. Then
pull the new vertices into position. You can then add more
rows util you get to the end where it is a simple matter of
creating a new face to cap the tip.
At this stage I have also made a mirror
copy of the mesh to get a better understanding of what the
whole body will look like. Use select mode and world axis
and pivot before you mirrror to make sure you pivot about
the centre of the grid. When you mirror, make an instance
of the mesh, so that any future changes are reflected on the
other side.
Now that you see the whole body, you may
want to refine the vertex positions and create the overall
shape you want. Make sure the border vertices lie on the centre
axis to make the two halves seemless. Add some more detail
when you are happy with the overall shape. Don't worry too
much about the limb sockets or head area as we will get to
them later. |
8 - Close head & refine shoulders
Working around the head and shoulder area,
we can close the mesh by adding faces at the end. You can
use the cap holes modifier or create a new face directly.
Notice that at this stage we are still maintaining 4 sided
polygons wherever possible.
Start working the vertices around the shoulder
out to create the sockets for the arms. Change the smoothing
group at the ends to give you a better idea about the shape
and which areas are to be extruded.
Also, fill out the chest cavity to make
room for the pectoral muscles. |
9 - Start arms & chest
Now we can start extruding out the arms.
Shift move the end faces to create more arm cross sections.
Just work on the first few for now. What we are trying to
achieve here is to line up key vertices along muscle lines.
The most obvious is the line that runs underneath the pectoral
muscles and swoops up into the arm. Have a look at anatomy
reference books and you will see what I mean.
It is important to try to follow these
key muscle lines as they not only define the shape of the
model, but also how the vertices move when animated. These
lines are usually most visible where large muscle groups intersect
under the skin or where hard sections of bone are indicated. |
10 - Create base arm
Select the base arm faces and detach them
from the main body. This will allow us to work on the arm
in isolation without having to worry about the rest of the
mesh.
Extrude out some more faces to define the
arm and start shifting vertices around. You could use reference
pictures of your own arm here in the top and front viewports
to help get the dimensions correct. Alternatively, see if
you can find some pictures on the net.
Push the vertices around to create the
contours of the arm. Note where the elbow crease will be and
the key bulges of the triceps, biceps and forearm muscles. |
11 - Refine arms onto body
With the basic arm sketched out, we can
re-attach it to the shoulder. Now we can see what the arm
looks like on both sides.
Assign the faces back to one smoothing
group and start shifting vertices around to get the arm shape
you want. Make sure you blend the arms well into the shoulder
to prevent them from looking like sticks shoved into the shoulder.
I cannot stress enough how much anatomy
reference helps here. Gather all the books you can afford,
look on the net and study your own body. Note where muscles
start and end, where the major groups are and how they attach
to the bones. Muscles constantly overlap each other like the
deltoids covering the instertion point of the pecs, try to
follow the contour lines and match them with your vertex placement. |